if you can be one thing in life, be interesting.: Costa Rica, Day 4 & 5: Montezuma & Cubaya

Made the drive from Carrillo south yesterday. I had never been south of Punta Islita, so it was almost completely new territory. I was surprised, once again, by the newly paved roads from just South of Carrillo almost all the way to Islita. There were even bridges, culverts, all sorts of modernization that I didn't expect and was almost disappointed to see. How quickly things change. I am happy to report that we still had to do a couple of river crossings ourselves (including the Rio Bongo), and the treacherousness of the roads after the pavement made up for the existence of the pavement in the first place.

Islita still seems to be thriving, and continues to be the one town I've visited in CR that has actually been completely successful thanks to American tourism. The town thrives. I think it's a great example of taking something that could potentially ruin the local way of life, and evolving that way of life to make it work for the people. Everyone has a part in this evolution, even the school children in this town make this amazing art that they sell to the American's to help fund programs for THEM. They've managed to keep this incredibly rich culture without inflating themselves out of work. It's a pretty special example.

As we went south it became pretty obvious that surfing was the pass time of choice in the lower Nicoya. The beautiful surfers of the world all must congregate in this area. Mal Pais seemed like little America, surf shops, massage parlors, the whole works. And a whole lot of beautiful (did I say that already?!). No wonder my boy Tom lives here with his hooker of a wife--it's a hot spot!

The road from Mal Pais to Montezuma was probably the most questionable that I have traveled thus far in CR. Incredibly steep, two track, through the jungle. However, regardless of how treacherous I thought it was, the tiko's still manage to blow my mind--flippin' SEMI TRUCKS on this fourwheeler trail. Incredible.

Speaking of fourwheelers, that's the way to get around, no more SUV's.

Finally arrived at our house outside of Montezuma (in Cubaya, actually). Funny side story about Cubaya...you sing the name...each stressed sound getting deeper CA-BYe-ya. It's like a little mini musical. I kind of dig it. Anyway, the house is amazing. Everything is open, it's far enough off the road, totally gated (so it feels safe). The pool just calls your name (although I still haven't gotten in it), and I have a special little hut all my own across the yard from the rest of the family.

We went to the Super and the fish market when we finally arrived here, and bought some groceries in hopes of avoiding eating out...but by the time we had finished shopping, we felt the need to eat so we went to the Soda next door called "Coyote". Like most Soda's, it's actually someone's house and they've put a few tables outside and they feed you to make a buck. This was the best Soda EVER. First off, they spoke English, which is a plus for me because my Spanish completely sucks. Second, they had the most amazing food EVER. I had a lemon-garlic-butter fish that was to die for. Melt in your mouth good. I probably would have eaten three plate fulls had my judgement not been there :)

This morning I read in a hammock for quite some time, before convincing the family that we needed to get out. The brothers wanted to head out fishing, and the rest of us were eager to check out a couple of falls. As it turns out, the rivers are pretty dry so many of the waterfalls are less than awesome, so we ended up at the beach.

Met the nicest little couple from Michigan....their beach bag was stolen right from under them at the beach. This was my first "theft" experience in CR to date. Turns out their camera's and car keys were in the bag, and, as it turns out, Costa Rican rental car companies never give you a spare. So, we ended up bringing the wife to town to find la policia and call the rental car company for a spare, and leaving the hubbo at the beach to watch the car. In town, we found that there are no police in Montezuma, but we ran across a Costa Rican who spoke amazing English who wanted to help. Two hours later we had broken into the car, the nice midwestern couple had recovered their purse and wallet from the inside, and managed to hire a "tow truck" to bring the car to town so that they didn't have to wait at the beach for the rental agency to arrive with a spare key.

Made dinner at the house tonight--Mahi-mahi, green salad, and rice. Pretty traditional Costa Rican meal. It was to die for....I ate until I thought I was going to explode. YUMMY!

Tomorrow, Cabo Blanco National Reserve....until then, hasta.