Costa Rica, Day 10: Tidal Shift

We woke up early this morning and headed out.  Low tide was early and we wanted to catch it low so we could walk out to Cubaya Island. SUCCESS! Found some more sea glass (score!), and walked around the outer edge of the island to check out what the tide had left behind.

Cubaya Island was pretty neat because on the south side the waves of the Pacific beat against the island and on the north side the waves of the Gulf of Nicoya beat against the island.  On the far east side of the small island, the two currents converged.  Pretty special thing to see/feel/hear.  Truly humbling.

In the interior of the island was a cemetery.  Aar and dad had been here with their kayaking guide earlier this week, and Aar told mom and I how some of the people had died.  'This one partied to death, this one rode motorcycles' using his little accent, and, if you know Aaron, you know this is the hardest I would ever consider laughing in a cemetery.  Pray that the ghosts of party guy and motorcycle man don't haunt me.

On our way back to the mainland, mom made a new "friend" with a presumably drunk Costa Rican man.  It was hilarious...we took pictures of them together, laughed with the man, laughed even harder when dad tried to guess what he was saying ("guapo means grandpa, right?").  It was a lot of fun--and a lot of creepy.

Later we headed to Playa Manchas to snorkel and spear fish.  Unfortunately, the ocean was a fury, so it was a little bit of a rough time.  We only brought one spear out, and Aar nailed a yellowfin.  Which, must I say, was pretty awesome, considering we've been hounding the local fishermen for an "ah-tun" since we arrived, and they haven't had one yet.  There were quite a few fish, but, as I said, it was pretty rough (nothing like waves crashing into your snorkel while you're taking a breath).  It was a lot of fun though.

More Snorkeling tomorrow, can't wait!! I'm sorry this was rushed, but Aunt Sue was completely hounding me on getting the pictures up (love ya, Sue!). Hasta Manana!

 

Aar and I on Cubaya Island

  

momma's new man friend (it's ok, he thinks dad is muy guapo) 

 

local kids in Cubaya. stinkin' cute!

 

a mom and her little girl, riding between Cubaya and Montezuma

  

one resident photographer photographing another--thanks Pop.

 

school of fish around a buoy line

 

coolest marine fish I've seen yet--pictures don't do it justice

 

self portrait of me and my temporary pets--these little yellow fish wouldn't leave me!

 

Scuba Steve, I mean Aaron, with his manly spear and ENORMOUS yellow fin. Nice catch brother--delicious sushi!

 

open containers in Costa Rica: either legal or not enforced. WIN!

Costa Rica, Days 7,8, & 9: R&R, Waterfalls, Beach Combing, & Tsunami's

Day seven was a whole lot of resting.  We decided we needed to go to the SUPER super in Cabano to get some groceries.  In the states SUPER means huge--SUPER Walmart means enormously large and you can find anything you ever wanted and then some.  Here in Costa Rica SUPER means you can actually get a diet pepsi at the grocery store (miracle!).  We did manage to stock up on some fruit, veggies, and the essential, liquor.

On this very same journey, we figured we weren't far from "world famous" Tambor, so we thought we'd cruise on down and check it out. On the way, we decided to get gas, only to find the attendant at the station we stopped at taking a ciesta. He told us to go on. He sure as heck wasn't going to pump our gas in the middle of his ciesta. God, I love this country. Anyway, back to Tambor.  It wasn't at all the place we'd imagined, minus the enormous Golf Course with armed guards surrounding it. RIDICULOUS.  No wonder it's famous to Americans, it's little America.

Around dinner time we had a little excitement: a friendly little scorpion rearing its little head.  Aaron massacred it with a broom stick.  Five minutes later a friendly little tarantula reared it's little head.  It, to, was massacred.  Through all of this there was a bit of freaking out throughout the family.  I felt invincible though, after all, I'd already survived a territorial war with a monkey, what were a couple little arachnids going to do?

Day eight the boys took off doing their thing, Rooster didn't want to leave the house, so mom and I took the SUV and headed into Montezuma to check out Montezuma Falls and see what the street vendors had.  First off, mom and I, in a car alone, usually equals erratic driving and obnoxiously loud car karaoke.  Mix that with two track dirt roads in a foreign country, and it's either a recipe for disaster or a really good time.  Luckily it ended up being a really good time, no disaster involved.  We hiked into Montezuma Falls, avoided a loco Jamaican, and enjoyed the trickle of a waterfall that was left at the end of summer.  Very pretty, but clearly a tourist trap, not our usual forte.

From there we walked through Montezuma, checking out the local artistry and talking with vendors.  Found some super neat stuff (bought something for you, Kels--it screamed your name!) including this fun bracelet from a Jamaican man. I hope there is no voodoo spells involved. Unless the voodoo has something to do with winning lottery numbers.

Dad, Mom, Aar, and I made dinner.  Fish that the boys guide caught, rice & beans, and salad.  Pretty delicious, but not quite as good as the fish mom made the other night or the fish at Coyote Soda.  Also had two little lobsters that they caught--pretty yummy.  We all need a break from fish though....where's the venison in this country?? Oh yeah, the whitetail is "endangered" here....crazy.

Day nine mom, dad, and I left the house around 630 in hopes of seeing Cocolito Waterfall, a couple hours north, by beach, of Montezuma. This was my mecca.

You know when you're a kid and you go to the beach and there is always a certain "treasure" you search for?  My treasure is sea glass.  There is something almost magical about what the ocean does to glass to make it this perfect little piece of art.  I love how someone else's trash becomes such a treasure...I get almost giddy when I find a different color.  Found clear, a couple shade's of blue, a couple shade's of green, and one small yellow piece. Super exciting.

Anyway, our beach walk went through two natural reserves, a whole lot of beautiful beaches, and the forest.  It was pretty spectacular.

And then, newsflash, tsunami warning.   Being in a semi-peripheral country, on the beach, when a tsunami hits is pretty much the worst case scenario when it comes to being hit by a tsunami.  Lucky for us, NOAA was overly prepared, as as we ran like hell up the hill 400 yards when we saw that the wave was coming, it just barely splashed us on our feet, phew. Ok, maybe that's not what happened. Maybe nothing actually happened, but just the "warning" kept us away from the beach for the afternoon.  I was safe though, with my arm floaties and my pina colada.  Invincible.

For dinner we went american--bbq'd chicked and pasta roni.  Pretty delicious. I also finished book number two: "Handle with Care" by Jodi Picoult. Anyway, off to enjoy the sunshine...

 

exhibit a: scorpion in kitchen

 

 exhibit b: tarantula in bathroom

 

the gecko's crawl into the paper lanterns at night to eat the bugs, super cute.

 

  

Montezuma Falls

 

"Grande Beach" and not a soul in sight.

 

this was a rock balancing area about a half hour into the beach hike...the physics of it was incredible, and these "statues" even withstand the tides. pretty rad.

 

beaches of the future?? I hope not. This is my proof that you all should stop using plastic.

  

the trail along the beach in the turtle refuge.

 

my "goldmine" in sea glass :)

Costa Rica, Day 6: Cabo Blanco National Reserve

 This morning we woke up early, about seven here (5 at home--eek!), and headed to Cabo Blanco National Reserve.  Cabo Blanco is Costa Rica's first national reserve, and takes over the entire southern tip of the Nicoya Peninsula.  It was super interesting to see the difference in primary forest and the secondary, or replanted, forest.  In the rain forest it works the same as our forests back home--the old growth is enormous and spread out, while the new growth is over crowded and smaller.

Mom and dad made me the sherpa, and I carried the water for our journey of about 8 miles round trip in 90 degree heat.  I'd like to continue to tell myself that this was good practice for backpacking season, although backpacking season is still months away, considering the rumors of rain and snow at home.

I saw a slew of wildlife--mostly monkeys, birds, lizards,  and butterflies, and a ton of flora and fauna. It was pretty incredible.  Even the spiders here are pretty, and I really do hate spiders.  They are also incredibly large...so big in fact, that I think they could eat me, but they're still pretty.

Be forewarned, I have LOTS of monkey stories. BUT I will share with you only the top three:

On the trail, we met a few white faced monkey's face to face.  Like, literally.  One monkey apparently wanted me off his property and shook a stick at me as if he was Rafiki.  There was an entire colony though, it was pretty neat, although I was scared for my life (for no particular reason).  They were running all around us, swinging from the trees. It was like the bell had just rung for recess as we walked up. We knew we had worn out our welcome when they started throwing things at us (although I'm pretty sure my welcome was worn when that damn monkey shook his stick at me).

 As we were walking back we could hear a few howlers off in the trees, we stopped to see if we could spot them, and, waited, in silence, to see if their sounds would help us see them.  Then I heard the saddest, most terrible noise as I saw this female with a baby on her back.  I'm not sure what the noise was, but I'm pretty sure that she was either in mourning or in pain.  The sound made me want to cry. It was so sad. Absolutely heart breaking.  She was certainly an emotional lady...I almost hope that there was a reason for her pain, other than PMS.  No one likes a PMS-ing monkey.

On the trip back, there was all this commotion in the bushes and I was sure that I was about to see the elusive giant Guinea Pig thing, but then there was this crazy screeching and howling and scariness, quickly followed by a monkey falling from a tree, and a howler monkey going crazy like he was a badass UFC fighter above it.  It was INSANE.  Who knew that monkey's had turf wars like the bloods and the crypts?! Crazy!

That's really all I have for today. I'm ridiculously sweaty and look like a disaster, and my sunburn has become this disgusting blistering mess.  Time to finally jump in that pool....

 

mom and I in front of a "Panama Tree"

pretty spider.

huggin' some tree

white faced monkey

HUGENORMOUS

the ma and pop

la familia.

  

checkin' out the monkeys.

the southern most point of the Nicoya Penninsula

  

my muy bonita madre y me

Costa Rica, Day 4 & 5: Montezuma & Cubaya

Made the drive from Carrillo south yesterday.  I had never been south of Punta Islita, so it was almost completely new territory.  I was surprised, once again, by the newly paved roads from just South of Carrillo almost all the way to Islita.  There were even bridges, culverts, all sorts of modernization that I didn't expect and was almost disappointed to see.  How quickly things change.  I am happy to report that we still had to do a couple of river crossings ourselves (including the Rio Bongo), and the treacherousness of the roads after the pavement made up for the existence of the pavement in the first place.

Islita still seems to be thriving, and continues to be the one town I've visited in CR that has actually been completely successful thanks to American tourism.  The town thrives.  I think it's a great example of taking something that could potentially ruin the local way of life, and evolving that way of life to make it work for the people.  Everyone has a part in this evolution, even the school children in this town make this amazing art that they sell to the American's to help fund programs for THEM.  They've managed to keep this incredibly rich culture without inflating themselves out of work. It's a pretty special example.

As we went south it became pretty obvious that surfing was the pass time of choice in the lower Nicoya.  The beautiful surfers of the world all must congregate in this area.  Mal Pais seemed like little America, surf shops, massage parlors, the whole works. And a whole lot of beautiful (did I say that already?!). No wonder my boy Tom lives here with his hooker of a wife--it's a hot spot!

The road from Mal Pais to Montezuma was probably the most questionable that I have traveled thus far in CR.  Incredibly steep, two track, through the jungle.  However, regardless of how treacherous I thought it was, the tiko's still manage to blow my mind--flippin' SEMI TRUCKS on this fourwheeler trail. Incredible.

Speaking of fourwheelers, that's the way to get around, no more SUV's.

Finally arrived at our house outside of Montezuma (in Cubaya, actually).  Funny side story about Cubaya...you sing the name...each stressed sound getting deeper CA-BYe-ya.  It's like a little mini musical. I kind of dig it.  Anyway, the house is amazing. Everything is open, it's far enough off the road, totally gated (so it feels safe).  The pool just calls your name (although I still haven't gotten in it), and I have a special little hut all my own across the yard from the rest of the family.

We went to the Super and the fish market when we finally arrived here, and bought some groceries in hopes of avoiding eating out...but by the time we had finished shopping, we felt the need to eat so we went to the Soda next door called "Coyote".  Like most Soda's, it's actually someone's house and they've put a few tables outside and they feed you to make a buck.  This was the best Soda EVER.  First off, they spoke English, which is a plus for me because my Spanish completely sucks. Second, they had the most amazing food EVER.  I had a lemon-garlic-butter fish that was to die for. Melt in your mouth good.  I probably would have eaten three plate fulls had my judgement not been there :)

This morning I read in a hammock for quite some time, before convincing the family that we needed to get out.  The brothers wanted to head out fishing, and the rest of us were eager to check out a couple of falls.  As it turns out, the rivers are pretty dry so many of the waterfalls are less than awesome, so we ended up at the beach.

Met the nicest little couple from Michigan....their beach bag was stolen right from under them at the beach.  This was my first "theft" experience in CR to date.  Turns out their camera's and car keys were in the bag, and, as it turns out, Costa Rican rental car companies never give you a spare.  So, we ended up bringing the wife to town to find la policia and call the rental car company for a spare, and leaving the hubbo at the beach to watch the car.  In town, we found that there are no police in Montezuma, but we ran across a Costa Rican who spoke amazing English who wanted to help. Two hours later we had broken into the car, the nice midwestern couple had recovered their purse and wallet from the inside, and managed to hire a "tow truck" to bring the car to town so that they didn't have to wait at the beach for the rental agency to arrive with a spare key.

Made dinner at the house tonight--Mahi-mahi, green salad, and rice. Pretty traditional Costa Rican meal.  It was to die for....I ate until I thought I was going to explode. YUMMY!

Tomorrow, Cabo Blanco National Reserve....until then, hasta.

 

Punta Islita's Art Gallery--by kids!

  

a piece of the artwork (I know, immature, but I couldn't help it!). This is $25 by the way.

Exhibit A: Hound Cow...they must have these in India, they're to cute to eat!

 

relaxing for a short bit at Playa Islita

iguana at Playa Coyote

the backyard of the house--my hut is in the top right corner.

the main house at Cubaya

Gulfo de Nicoya

dad, being eaten alive by a baby baracuda.

Costa Rica, Travel Day 2 and 3: Liberia, Carrillo, & Samara

The flight from Dallas to Liberia was my best flight ever.  I was on the plane next to a woman from St. Louis who was a community garden planner.  We got to talk about renewable gardening, organic eating, politics (which, I know, you're never supposed to talk about on a plane OR with strangers, but we couldn't help it!) and, always my favorite, backpacking. She rocked my world, we talked the entire flight.  Awesome new friend.

Additionally, I witnessed my second standing ovation for our military in DFW....truly beautiful.

We arrived in Liberia and it was about thirty thousand degrees and three hundred percent humidity: pure bliss.  We had the most adorable little Costa Rican shuttle driver to the rental car...super eager, super friendly, and the funniest giggle ever.  The drive from Liberia to Carrillo was good, it was a little sad to see the development...nothing like driving out of the airport and seeing a Hilton where there used to be a banana plantation. Gag me. 

Carrillo has become ridiculously developed, but still has the old town feel.  The people at El Colibri remember us, and they're excited to talk fishing.  Had a Delmonico for dinner and was reminded of all of the deliciousness my steak lacks in the states...it stimulated taste buds that I didn't even know I had.  10oz of pure bbq bliss. LOVE!

On day three we went and let the kids frolic on the beach for a bit, then went out to check out the reef at Playa Carrillo. Total devastation.  The reef is almost completely dead now, with a stray piece of coral here and there, but nothing notable. It was heart breaking to think about how quickly it disappeared.  Saw three different species of puffer fish, lots of angel fish, star fish, etc.  Didn't bring the spear because we didn't expect to see bigger rock fish, and saw a VERY edible sea bass that would have tasted delicious.  I have ten more days to do the spear hunting though--there is time :).

Did I mention that I'm sunburned? Through multiple layers of SPF70? It's a special skill, being a white girl....anyway, enjoy a few pictures, and I'll post again soon :)

 

Playa Carrillo upon arrival, Saturday night.

One of the locals "secret" beaches outside of Carrillo...my favorite sea glass hot spot :)

a little free moosejaw advertising, because I can.

checking out the remains of the reef--and having a near death puffer fish situation.

more free moosejaw advertising....it's getting me rewards points for those new snowshoes!

the family at dinner in Samara, post sunburn (ouch).

Playa Carrillo Website 

Playa Samara Website 

Costa Rica, Travel Day 1: Still in the States

Arrived in Pullman with two minutes to spare--lucky us. Luckily it's po-dunk Pullman and they didn't care to much. Got through security and went straight out to the plane, and, magically, there was a BSU plane, summoning us. It was like a message from heaven telling me "this is going to be the best vacation ever!". God shined down and slapped Moscow in the face, which, as you all know, makes me happy, and it quite the perfect way to begin a perfect trip.  The picture is from out of my window--what better way to see Mount Rainer than with the stamp of perfection above the view?!

Spent EIGHT hours in Seattle. It was a little ridiculous. I slept on the floor, like a true db, and hacked up one and a half lungs. The whole mind over matter thing to prevent this illness from completely setting in is not yet working. Started reading "Eat, Pray, Love" and am thus far infatuated with the book. AMAZING.

While waiting at our gate there was a mom and her son with a balloon saying "Welcome Home". I knew there was a soldier that was coming off the plane to reunite with his family...when the little boy saw his dad he ran and hugged him and the entire terminal applauded and many people stood for him. It was beautiful. Refreshing. My heart stopped. It really put into perspective how thankful I am for our men and women in uniform who sacrifice everything, even family, to protect the way I live. I was honored and humbled to call myself an American at that moment, and even found myself wiping away a little happy tear.

From Seattle to Dallas J, K & family were on the same plane--and Roo made friends with EVERYONE. Cutest thing ever...invited everyone from cowboys to soldiers to flight attendants to her birthday party--in August--and told them they could bring friends. Super cute :)

Now, we're in Irving, Texas...not to far from Texas Stadium. And, I must say, that God really did bless Texas...Jess & Jamie: we need a trip here ASAP!!

Tomorrow morning, bright and early, we exit the states and welcome in paradise (although, with all the hottness in this state, I might be considering it paradise, just sayin'...). Hopefully there is more excitement tomorrow, which I expect as we try and conquer the Pan-American Highway and the Spanish language while avoiding getting monkey poo thrown at us....