Saturday, March 6, 2010

Costa Rica, Days 14 & 15: Carrillo and the return to the States


  There is something about flying that is completely fascinating to me.  I love every second of it.  The exhilaration of take off, the anticipation of landing, meeting strangers from throughout the world and sharing your bubble with them.  It's magical, peaceful even, in the oddest way possible.
  There is one thing about it that kills me though: looking down on the thousands of miles below you.  Ordinarily, I would consider this a pretty awesome thing, to see the whole world from 35,000+ feet, but there are places where I fly over and I get this incredible yearning.  If things look the northern reef of Cuba look like this from 35,000+ feet, I can only imagine the beauty of it up close.  And if the Rocky Mountains are reaching up for me as I fly over, imagine the solitude and freedom and peace of standing on top of one of the many 14,000+ peaks that makeup America's favorite mountain range, or casting a fly in one of the thousands of creeks that run through the vast wilderness of the Cascade Range ahead.
  This picture is painted even more vividly when traveling over the Rockies with dad, who grew up in this mountain paradise, built trails throughout the southern reaches, partied in the dunes.  His stories make this view from 35,000+ feet even tougher.  He explained the grains of sand in the dunes, how they were all the same exact size, I can only imagine the beauty below me.  But, alas, I'm on a plane, looking down on it all, and wishing that instead I was in the middle of it…always wanting what I can't have.
  The last two days have been pretty surreal. It's always tough to kiss paradise goodbye.  The drive north on the Nicoya is always breathtaking, with the jungle and mountains softly kissing the Pacific Coast beaches with such grace.  The scenery of the Nicoya Peninsula just flows in the most perfect way, the rough edges and the softness all blending in to make a stunning and breathtaking image that feels like it was created just for us to enjoy.
   Samara seems to have slowed down in the past two weeks, as the summer season draws to an end and people begin to visit less frequently.  In Carrillo, the harbor was full of enormous  yachts, preparing for one of the biggest sail fishing tournaments in the world.  There was not a boat in the harbor worth less than $150k, and they were all over 40 feet, which means they likely had a full time crew to sail the vessels (and the owners likely only fly in for the tournaments).  We spent a big chunk of time gawking at the boats, and dreaming of the day when we had one.  We also enjoyed our last Costa Rican sunset of the trip, followed by dinner at El Colibri.  The steaks were, as always, to die for.  And the desert may have been the most incredible thing since sliced bread.  I fell in love.
   We arrived back in Liberia in plenty of time, and luckily dad had been wise enough to take care of our departure tax upon arrival so lines were minimal.  Security in Liberia was once again pretty interesting.  Customs didn't stamp my passport, I got through security with water and wearing shoes, while dad had his shells taken out of his carry on. 
   Liberia is a wide open airport, the best I can do to describe it is   a grass hut with big fans and uncomfortable seating, and, as you possibly assume, no air conditioning.  Additionally, since its open, people assume that smoking is perfectly permissible (which, legally speaking, it is) which makes it smell like a dive bar on a Saturday night. Less than satisfactory.  Upon boarding , our luggage was searched and we were all patted down.  Dad had a little coffee in his carry on and they opened it, presumably because it looked a lot like a bag of cocaine, but I really couldn't tell you why for sure…I also can't tell you why dad is always the one to get picked on by airport security, regardless of what country we're in.
   We arrived in Miami and walked the ten miles that customs always seems to make you walk (I have yet to figure out why there are miles of corridors before you get to customs, and then everything is stuffed into a ten by ten room in an effort to make everyone uncomfortable as hell while they stand in line for hours…).  Unfortunately for us, we chose the wrong passport verification line and ended up behind a family of four who had their passports stolen while in CR and the Customs Agent apparently felt that the documentation from the Canadian government wasn't sufficient for them to be in the airport for an hour while they waited for their connection to Canada. Typical.
   This was also the first time that no one looked at our bags (that we know of, will be able to verify once we land safely in Pullman) at all in customs, nor did we have any additional security.  This could, quite possibly be because I did the paperwork instead of dad, meaning his security magnet jou-jou was not effecting our trip through US customs. 
   Now, I'm not sure any of ya'all have ever been to the Miami Airport, but it's pretty much the worst of the worst.  It's dirty, and there are A LOT of empty walls. It basically drives me crazy.  Add to that the FSA telling us to follow the yellow dots on the floor, forcing me to look at the floor, it could just about make a person in flip flops ill.  The food in Miami was even bad, and I mean bad for airport food, which is already pretty bad.  Less than desirable experience…give me Detroit, Atlanta, or Dallas from now on, just skip over Miami entirely, please.  We finally arrived in Dallas at about 11 last night, and flew out around 7.  They did manage to get our hotel room in Dallas right this time though, probably thanks to the angry phone call I made informing them that four people cannot sleep on a king size bed.  Apparently I got through to them though….It's been a long couple of days.
   Now, we are on the final leg of our journey, a flight from Dallas to Seattle, where we'll connect to Pullman and be home again. 
   This is my plea, Mother Nature, please be warm.  Please let winter be over and backpacking season begin.  And, now that I came back to Idaho instead of becoming a gypsy throughout Central America, please make the last bit of Steelhead season rock my world, I really, really, would like that…..

Wednesday, March 3, 2010

Costa Rica, Day 13: Goodbye Montezuma, Goodbye Cubaya

Today was our last day on the edge of the Cabo Blanco Reserve, in one of the cutest little towns in Costa Rica.

Rosa, the house keeper, who, amazingly, I have no mentioned yet...I will elaborate momentarily...brought us a rice and beans and cilantro thing early this morning. It was to die for.  She's been such a sweet lady despite the ridiculous language barrier (props to google translator, you rock our world).  She's been here everyday taking care of the property and cleaning up after us.  Could not have asked for a sweeter little lady to have shared our experience with here in Cubaya.

We snorkeled again this morning, and the tide basically kicked our butts. Saw some pretty incredible fish though, and had my most humbling underwater experience, yet.  I decided against trying to swim to where I wanted to be, more out of exhaustion than logic, and let the ocean take me where it please.  This is not often a great idea, but it worked for me this time around.  When you just let yourself float, without movement, the fish get used to your presence and consider you a safety barrier.  Usually it's only the smaller fish that swim around you, but I'd been still long enough that the bigger fish swarmed.  It was almost magical.  There were at least a hundred 8-15 inch fish (I honestly have no idea what they were) all around me.  At first I thought it was an illusion, but then I realized they were there.  Pretty incredible.  Definitely feel privileged to have had that experience.

We went into Montezuma to get a few last things from the vendors and enjoy the town one last time this afternoon.  Such a neat town, I really enjoyed it.

This will probably be my last post before returning to the states, as the internet in Carrillo doesn't seem to agree with my computer.  I'll update from the airport in Miami or DFW on our final two days.

I can't begin to explain how thankful I am to mom and dad for bringing us on this trip in Grandpa's honor.  It was a tribute to him, and the four of us thoroughly made it a worthy one.  He was a world traveler who enjoyed getting his feet dirty off the beaten path, he was full of adventure, and he lived every day with so much love.  I am blessed to have been in his life, and I am eternally grateful to have experienced Costa Rica again in Grandpa's honor.  Love you mom and pops.

Now....to concoct a way to stay here a bit longer....hmmmm....

Tuesday, March 2, 2010

Costa Rica, Days 11 & 12: Sunshine and Water

The last two days have been spent in my favorite place--the water.

Snorkeling is a pretty special experience, especially in salt water where you're almost completely buoyant.  There is something about the sound the shells make crackling beneath the surface, the movement of the water, and, once you know how to move within the water, the relationship you have to everything in it.  Fish will move with you for protection.  Octopus will swim by without noticing you.  Eels will leave their rock crevices in search of food.  It's almost magical to be an outsider in the underwater world and blend.

Aar is officially a spear fishing super star (and spear HOG, may I add...), he's slaying more fish than the locals, and I must say they're pretty delicious. Still only that one yellowfin though...and he attempted to slay some lobster today as well, but to no avail.

Last night we booked it over to Mal Pais after snorkeling high tide so we could watch the sunset. We didn't exactly make it, but "ish".  Ate at a local soda and it was excellent.  We've discovered on this trip that Costa Rican's make the best guacamole in the world.  How we never knew this before, is beyond me.  Just know it's amazing.

The drive back across the Peninsula at dark was surely an experience, to say the least.  The road seemed narrower, the jungle was dark.  There were strange flying objects (at one point Aaron was SURE he saw a three foot flying grasshopper, it was, in fact, a Night Hawk...).  Worth it though :)

Went to Cabano today to get some coffee to bring home and get gas for the trip back up to Carrillo on Thursday.  I also decided to get another $50 in colones, just in case.  I'm not sure I've explained the Costa Rican banking experience to ya'all, but I'll do it now:  Guard at the door with a sawed off shotgun drinking a slurpy and laughing with locals.  Show him your passport so he doesn't use shotgun on you. Enter. Crazy freaking metal detector/possibly air puffer machine that talks in ridiculously fast espanol that I cannot understand at all.  Another guard with hand gun.  Pick a number out of stupid machine as if you're at the DMV or Social Security Administration Building. Sit and wait.  Locals look at you as if you're a moron and cut in front of you.  Finally get to the window.  Attendant pretends to not understand any English and forces you to scrape up your pigeon Spanish.  Attendant enters your passport information into some system.  Sign fifteen receipts.  Get ridiculous amount of money (there are 5,440 colones in $1).  Walk through swarms of people who think you're a rich asshole of a tourist.  Go back through metal detector contraption.  Pass sawed off shot gun guard.  Breath sign of relief. And this is not me being ridiculous.  It's a tedious process.  I will never again bitch about going to the bank in the states....for at least a week.  I also have no pictures to document this event. I apologize.

Had the fish Aar speared, pasta, salad, and smoked pork chops for dinner tonight. Pretty delicious.  Not sure I'm ready to go back to my bachelor diet of easy mac, diet pepsi, and steam fresh veggies.....

Hasta Manana....

 
awesome butterfly shot taken by dad...he's amazing.


 
a little glimpse at what we saw: feels a little like you're in an aquarium, huh?


the coastline from the ridge top above the beach


handle bar hound cow


Mal Pais at sunset


  
absolutely LOVE my family....this trip couldn't have been any better.


this is the road back to the house from Mal Pais...yikes!